Ban Rak Thai

Ban Rak Thai (meaning “Thai-loving village”) is a former Chinese Nationalist (KMT) settlement near the Myanmar border, 45km north of Mae Hong Son. The village sits beside a reservoir surrounded by tea plantations and misty mountains, and has a distinctly Yunnanese feel — Chinese-style buildings, tea houses, and Mandarin-speaking residents whose grandparents fled China after the 1949 revolution.

What to See & Do

The village is small and best experienced slowly. Tea tasting at the lakeside tea houses is the main activity — locally grown oolong and jin xuan teas at 40-60 baht per pot. The reservoir is scenic in the early morning when mist hangs over the water. A short walk along the shore reaches a Chinese memorial arch and the village cemetery.

The surrounding hills have trails through tea plantations and into Shan and Lisu hill tribe areas. Some guesthouses arrange guided treks. The border area with Myanmar is visible from the ridges above the village.

Getting There

From Mae Hong Son, it’s a 1.5-hour drive north on Route 1095 then a turnoff onto a winding mountain road. No public transport runs directly — rent a motorbike in Mae Hong Son or hire a songthaew. The road is steep and curvy but paved throughout.

Best Time to Visit

November to February is cold, misty and atmospheric — exactly the conditions that make the village photogenic. Weekday mornings have the least crowds. Avoid Thai long weekends when the village fills up with domestic tourists and accommodation doubles in price.

Insider Tip: Stay overnight. Most visitors come for a few hours from Mae Hong Son, but the village is at its best at dawn when the mist sits over the lake and the tea houses are empty. Basic lakeside rooms run 500-800 baht.