Wat Pa Non Sawan

Dinosaur statues greet you at the entrance to Wat Pa Non Sawan, and that’s the first sign this isn’t a conventional Isan forest temple. The complex sits in Ban Thoet Thai, Thung Khao Luang district, about 17 km east of Roi Et town via Route 23. It’s the life’s work of the monk Luang Pu Kham Pan, known locally for his blessings and amulets, who spent decades building an increasingly elaborate mix of Buddhist devotion and folk-art sculpture across the grounds. Entry is free, open daily 6 AM to 5 PM.

A long avenue lined with Naga serpent balustrades and painted statues leads to the centrepiece: a multi-storey chedi roughly 40-50 metres tall, its silhouette closer to a fairground castle than a traditional single-tier stupa. Inside, each level holds murals and Buddha images tracing scenes from the Buddha’s life. Around the base, giant sculptures of Hindu deities, dragons and turtles crowd the pathways — the sheer density of statuary is the point, more visual accumulation than restrained temple architecture.

The temple’s other draw, and the reason it shows up on “weird Thailand” lists, is its depiction of Buddhist hell realms: sculpted scenes of specific punishments for specific misdeeds, rendered without much softening. That content is set apart behind a skull-marked entrance and wall rather than mixed into the main grounds, so families can visit the rest of the complex — the pottery-inspired decoration, the giant chedi, the Naga avenue — without walking straight into it.

Watch out: The hell-realm sculptures are graphic by design — figures being disembowelled or tortured, in the traditional Buddhist style used to illustrate karmic consequences. It’s segregated from the main path, but worth knowing before you bring young children through that section.

Weekday mornings are quietest, before any tour groups from Roi Et arrive. You’ll need your own transport — there’s no direct public transport link, and having a car or a hired driver also makes it easy to combine the visit with central Roi Et in the same day. Dress modestly and remove your shoes before entering any of the enclosed halls.