Wat Phu Ko Cho (Wat Banphot Khiri)

Wat Banphot Khiri — known locally as Wat Phu Ko Cho — sits on a small hill in Nong Sung district, well inland from the Mekong River despite what some older listings claim. There’s no boat crossing involved: a stairway of 260 stone steps climbs from the base of the hill to the temple grounds at the summit. The name comes from Isan dialect — the hill’s rounded, mound-like shape is what locals call “cho ko.”

The temple’s history is tied to one monk. Luang Pu La Khemapatto, a widely respected vipassana meditation teacher, lived here until his death on 19 January 1997 at the age of 84. After he passed, the community built Khemapattachedi, a bell-shaped stupa completed in 1999, to enshrine his relics at the summit. It remains the site’s centrepiece — a quiet pilgrimage stop for meditation practitioners rather than a conventional sightseeing temple.

Experience

The climb itself is the main event. Stone steps wind up through forest cover, passing small shrines and a scattering of wooden kuti (monks’ huts) tucked into the hillside before opening onto the summit plateau. From the top, the flat farmland and scattered hills of Nong Sung district spread out below — a different view from the riverside panoramas some listings wrongly promise, but a genuine one. Because the site functions as a working meditation temple rather than a tourist stop, expect a quiet, unhurried atmosphere rather than crowds or vendors.

Atmosphere & Timing

Morning is the easier time to climb — the 260 steps get hot fast once the sun is overhead, and there’s little shade on the upper stretch. The site sees far more Thai meditation visitors and locals paying respects at Luang Pu La’s stupa than foreign tourists, so don’t expect English signage or facilities geared toward travellers.

Insider Tip: Pace the climb — the steps are steep in the upper third, and there’s nowhere to refill water once you start. Carry your own bottle; there are no shops at the base.

Practical

Reach Wat Banphot Khiri by car or motorbike from Mukdahan town, heading southwest into Nong Sung district — there’s no river crossing or boat pier to arrange. Wear shoes with grip for the stone steps, and bring water since there’s nothing to buy near the base or at the summit. Entry is free.