Ban Mae Khun Wak

Deep in the mountains of Chiang Mai province, in Mae Chaem district, Ban Mae Khun Wak (also Khun Mae Wak) is a Hmong (Mong) village that farms the surrounding highlands. It sits within the Royal Project network that replaced opium with temperate crops, and today the village is best known for its oolong tea — grown on the slopes and processed in the village’s own tea factory.

The tea is the main reason to stop. The factory produces two oolong grades — No. 12 and the prized No. 17 — rolling roughly five kilos of fresh leaf into a single kilo of finished tea, much of it distributed through the Royal Project, and visitors can taste it on site. Around the village, families grow highland vegetables, cabbages and strawberries on terraced plots, and the cool climate and mountain views draw a trickle of visitors in the cherry-blossom season. This is a working agricultural community rather than a staged cultural village — what you see is everyday farm life.

Time moves differently in Ban Mae Khun Wak, where the rhythm of daily life follows natural cycles rather than clock schedules. Conversations happen slowly, often through gestures and smiles when language barriers arise. The genuine warmth of villagers creates meaningful connections despite cultural differences, and their pride in maintaining traditional ways is evident in every interaction. This peaceful environment offers a rare opportunity to step away from modern distractions and experience authentic human connection.

Getting here is a commitment: it’s roughly two hours from Chiang Mai by car via Mae Chaem, with no direct public transport, so most visitors drive or hire a car. The Mae Chon Luang agricultural station nearby is the usual anchor for a trip, with the village a short side-trip to taste and buy the tea. Early morning is best for farm activity and clear mountain views; bring warm layers, as it gets cold at this elevation in the cool season.