Ao Khao Kwai

Ao Khao Kwai (Buffalo Bay) is a small bay on the northeast coast of Koh Phayam, a car-free island in the Andaman Sea off Ranong province. The bay sits about 800 metres of palm-backed beach with no road access — a longtail from the island’s main pier is the only way in. There’s no ATM, no 7-Eleven, and no mobile phone signal worth mentioning. That’s the entire pitch.

What to Do

Not much, and that’s the point. Ao Khao Kwai suits people who want to read, swim and eat without a plan. The beach is long, clean and usually empty midweek. The water is calm enough for swimming at mid-tide — the gradient is gentle, making it one of the better bays on the island for relaxed paddling. Tide pools appear at low tide at the headland edges. Snorkelling is decent around the rocky headlands at either end; bring your own mask if you have one, as rental gear is limited. For proper reef diving, a longtail to the offshore islands gives you clearer water — agree on a price, route and return time up front.

Several bungalow operations back the beach on the hillside above, ranging from basic bamboo huts to slightly more comfortable fan rooms. A few of the attached restaurants serve fresh seafood at local prices — the kind of meals that are difficult to find once you’re back on the mainland.

Walking trails connect Ao Khao Kwai to the island’s other beaches and to the interior cashew plantations, which cover much of Koh Phayam’s interior. The full trail to the main pier takes 30-40 minutes on foot through the plantation and scrub. Motorbikes can be rented at the main pier for exploring the rest of the island, including Ao Yai (the island’s longest beach) and the village on the western side.

Getting There

Fly from Bangkok to Ranong (roughly 1 hour, Nok Air operates the route), then take a songthaew to the pier and catch a speedboat to Koh Phayam (45 minutes, 350 baht) or a slow boat (about 2 hours, 200 baht). From Koh Phayam pier, a longtail to Ao Khao Kwai takes around 15 minutes. In the high season (December to March), speedboats run at least every two hours between 09:30 and 16:30. Low-season boats depend entirely on weather.

Insider Tip: Book bungalows directly with the owners by phone — many of the smaller operations here don’t appear on booking platforms. November to April only; most places close in the monsoon. Bring all the cash you need from Ranong.