Nonthaburi

Overview

Nonthaburi sits directly north of Bangkok on both banks of the Chao Phraya, and in practice the two run together — the provincial capital is part of the same continuous urban area, reached in minutes on the MRT Purple Line or the express boat. Yet the province keeps pockets of an older riverside Thailand that central Bangkok has largely lost: working pottery kilns, fruit orchards behind the levees, and a line of temples facing the river.

The best known of these survivals is Ko Kret, a small island in a tight loop of the Chao Phraya in Pak Kret district. It was created in 1722 when a canal was cut across the neck of the meander to shorten the river route, leaving the land inside as an island. A Mon (Raman) community settled here and still produces the unglazed earthenware pottery and traditional sweets the island is known for. There are no cars — you get around on foot or by bicycle — and at weekends the riverside path becomes a busy market of food stalls and craft shops.

Nonthaburi is also Thailand’s most storied durian ground. The orchards along the river once produced the country’s most prized fruit, and Mon Thong and Kan Yao from Nonthaburi still command premium prices. The great floods of 2011 destroyed many of the old trees, and genuine Nonthaburi durian is now scarce, but the heritage and the annual fair endure.

Top Things to Do

Ko Kret is the obvious highlight. Cross from Pak Kret on the short ferry at Wat Sanam Nuea and follow the loop path around the island past pottery workshops, the leaning Mon-style chedi at Wat Poramaiyikawat, and rows of stalls selling Mon desserts, deep-fried snacks and flower-shaped khanom. Renting a bicycle is the easiest way to do the full circuit. It is liveliest on weekends; many shops are closed midweek.

Wat Chaloem Phra Kiat Worawiharn in Mueang Nonthaburi is one of the most refined royal temples on this stretch of the river — built in the reign of Rama III in a restrained, Chinese-influenced style, with finely proportioned halls set in a quiet riverside compound.

The old Nonthaburi Provincial Hall and pier mark the end of the Chao Phraya Express Boat line. The former town hall is a handsome teak building, and the surrounding old town and market make an easy walk straight off the boat.

The Museum of Nonthaburi, housed in the former provincial offices, traces the area’s river trade, Mon heritage and durian culture, and is a good orientation point before exploring the riverside.

IMPACT Muang Thong Thani in Pak Kret is Thailand’s largest exhibition and convention complex, hosting major trade fairs, concerts and sporting events — worth knowing if your visit coincides with a show.

Riverside temples and meditation wats are scattered through Bang Kruai, Bang Yai and Pak Kret — among them Wat Sangkhatan, a popular meditation temple, and a string of canal-side wats best reached by boat or bicycle.

Where to Stay

Because Nonthaburi blends seamlessly into Bangkok, most visitors stay in the capital and come for the day. Accommodation in the province itself is largely functional — local hotels and serviced apartments along the MRT Purple Line and around Muang Thong Thani, which fill up when major events are on at IMPACT. For a riverside stay, a handful of small hotels and guesthouses sit near the old town pier, putting you within easy reach of the express boat and Ko Kret.

Getting There

The MRT Purple Line is the simplest route: change to it from the Blue Line at Tao Poon and ride north through Mueang Nonthaburi, Bang Kruai, Bang Yai and Bang Bua Thong, with the Bang Rak Noi–Tha It station serving the riverside orchard area. The Chao Phraya Express Boat runs north from central Bangkok to its terminus at Nonthaburi Pier (N30), a scenic and inexpensive alternative. For Ko Kret, the usual approach is MRT or taxi to Pak Kret, then the short cross-river ferry at Wat Sanam Nuea.

Best Time to Visit

Nonthaburi follows the central-plains pattern: a cool dry season from November through February, a hot dry stretch in March and April, and a monsoon from May through October with the heaviest rain in September and October, when the Chao Phraya runs high. The cool months are the most comfortable for cycling Ko Kret and walking the riverside.

The hot season doubles as durian season — uncomfortable for sightseeing in the midday heat, but the best window if the fruit is what you have come for. In the wet season the sights remain workable between afternoon showers, though low-lying riverside and island paths can flood briefly when the river is high.