Nakhon Si Thammarat

Nakhon Si Thammarat is one of the oldest cities in southern Thailand, with a history stretching back over 1,500 years. It sits on the Gulf coast about 800km south of Bangkok and is best known for Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan, one of the most sacred temples in the country — its enormous chedi is visible from across the city and predates most of Bangkok by centuries.

What to See & Do

The old city has 15 attractions concentrated around the temple district. Beyond Wat Phra Mahathat, the shadow puppet tradition (nang talung) is still alive here — Nakhon is considered the birthplace of southern Thai shadow puppetry. The most accessible introduction is Ban Nang Talung Suchart Subsin, the workshop-museum of National Artist Suchart Subsin on Si Thammasok Road, open daily. The family has made and performed nang talung since the 1940s; the ground floor shows the full production process from raw buffalo hide to finished figure, while upstairs holds a collection of antique puppets. Live performances can be arranged for a 50-baht fee — call ahead so the family can prepare. The city’s Phra Isuan Shrine and surrounding Brahmin ruins point to its pre-Buddhist Hindu heritage.

Khao Luang National Park, the highest peak in southern Thailand (1,835m), is an hour west of town. The summit trail is a serious two-day trek through cloud forest. Krung Ching Waterfall inside the park is more accessible and one of the region’s most scenic cascades.

The local food scene is worth the trip alone. Nakhon is famous for khanom jeen — fresh fermented rice noodles served with southern-style curry sauces that are significantly hotter than their central Thai equivalents. The Thetsaban Fresh Market (Municipal Market) is the place to eat them: arrive between 6am and 9am, when vendors ladle out namya puma with whole blue crab claws alongside a spread of fresh and pickled vegetables. The night market on Thanon Ratchadamnoen is packed nightly with a wider mix of grilled dishes and snacks.

Where to Stay

Hotels are basic and budget-friendly. The city doesn’t see many international tourists, so expect Thai-standard guesthouses and small hotels in the 400-800 baht range around the old city.

Getting There

Nakhon Si Thammarat Airport (NST) has several daily flights from Bangkok (1h 15m). Trains run from Bangkok (12-14 hours) and buses connect to Surat Thani, Krabi and Hat Yai. The city is a useful stopover between the Gulf islands and the Andaman coast.

Best Time to Visit

February to June is driest. The Gulf coast monsoon hits October to December — expect heavy rain and occasional flooding. Unlike the Andaman coast, the Gulf side has its worst weather later in the year.

Insider Tip: Time your visit for the Hae Pha Khun That festival (usually October), when locals parade a massive cloth up Wat Phra Mahathat’s chedi. It’s one of southern Thailand’s most important religious events and draws huge crowds from across the region.