Bang Saen

Overview

Bang Saen (บางแสน) is Bangkok’s closest proper seaside, about 108 km south-east of the capital in Chonburi province. It began as a fishing settlement and grew into a holiday town in the mid-20th century, helped by the Sukhumvit Road. The beach is roughly 2.5 km long and faces the Gulf of Thailand. It is a Thai-family and university-student place, with few foreign visitors, and weekends here mean rows of canvas chairs, grilled squid and a lot of people.

Top Things to Do

Bang Saen Beach. The beach is for sitting rather than swimming. Vendors rent canvas chairs under awnings and bring food and drinks straight to you. The water is usually not clear, although from October to February it can be much clearer. Weekends are packed, and Monday to Thursday it is calm.

Khao Sam Muk. A 45 m hill by the sea between Ang Sila and Bang Saen. A road runs to the top, where there is a viewpoint, and a Chinese shrine to Chao Mae Sam Muk sits under a rock outcrop facing the water. The legend of Sam Muk and her lover also gives Bang Saen its name. Wild macaques live on the hill, so keep food out of sight. See Khao Sam Muk.

Wat Saen Suk (Wang Saen Suk hell garden). A temple near the beach whose grounds are filled with cement and plaster statues showing the punishments of Buddhist hell: souls torn by dogs, boiled in cauldrons, pecked by birds. It is Thailand’s largest hell garden, intended as a moral lesson, and it is genuinely gruesome, so think twice before bringing small children.

Burapha University and the marine science aquarium. The university campus sits beside the beach and supplies much of the student crowd. Its Institute of Marine Science runs an aquarium that includes a Bryde’s whale skeleton. See The Institute of Marine Science of Burapha University.

Seafood. Oysters, grilled squid, grilled fish and som tam come from the beachfront stalls. The old market in Ang Sila is a short way along the coast for more seafood.

Wonnapa Beach. A quieter stretch of the same coast with canvas chairs.

Insider Tip: Go on a weekday. The beach, chairs and the road to Khao Sam Muk are all easier, and you will still find every stall open.

Where to Stay

Bang Saen has a small group of hotels and apartments close to the beach. Top-rated options on this site include In Clover Apartment Bangsaen, Eden Hotel Bangsaen and Kalm Bangsaen Hotel. Book ahead for Friday and Saturday nights, and for Thai long weekends when rooms fill.

Getting There

Buses from the Eastern Bus Terminal (Ekkamai) towards Chonburi serve Bang Saen. Ask the driver to drop you on the main road, then take a songthaew to the beach. Allow roughly 1.5 hours from Bangkok when traffic is light. Pattaya is further along the same coast if you want to continue.

Bangkok to Bang Saen works as a day trip, but it is more pleasant with one night.

Best Time to Visit

Bang Saen sits on the upper Gulf, so it follows central Thailand’s pattern rather than Koh Samui’s: the rainy season runs roughly May to October, with September and October usually the wettest. November to February is the most comfortable stretch, and March to May is the hottest. Crowds follow the Thai calendar more than the weather, with Songkran (the extended Wan Lai water festival runs along the road towards Pattaya) and long weekends the busiest.

Practical Tips

Songthaews run along the beach road, and the central strip is walkable. Carry some cash for chairs, stalls and the temple donation boxes. Cover shoulders and knees at Wat Saen Suk, and keep bags closed on Khao Sam Muk.