Ban Nam Phiang Din

Ban Nam Phiang Din is a Kayan (“long-neck”) village on the bank of the Pai River, reached only by boat from Mae Hong Son. The community are Kayan (Padaung) people, originally from Myanmar, best known for the stacked brass coils the women wear around their necks. It is a small riverside settlement where a handful of families live, weave, and sell handicrafts to the visitors who make the trip out.

Reaching the village is half the experience. From Mae Hong Son you drive about 14 km to the Ban Huay Duea pier, then take a longtail boat roughly an hour up the Pai River, winding past jungle and farmland — the same stretch of water used for rafting trips along the Pai River. Expect to pay around 1,000 THB for the boat (shared between up to eight people) plus an entry contribution of about 250 THB per person, which goes to the community.

At the village, Kayan women weave on backstrap looms and lay out handwoven scarves, bags and brass jewellery; buying directly from them is the main way a visit supports the families. It is worth going in with eyes open — these long-neck villages are a long-running and sometimes uncomfortable form of cultural tourism, and a respectful, unhurried visit (ask before photographing, buy something, don’t treat people as a spectacle) makes for a better experience on both sides.

Watch out: There’s no shade on the boat and little at the village itself — the round trip runs to roughly half a day once you count the drive. Bring a hat, sun cream and water rather than relying on finding any en route.

Go in the morning, when the river light is best and boats run more reliably. Bring cash for the boat, the entry contribution and any purchases, plus a hat and water for the exposed ride. Allow the best part of a half-day once you count the drive and the river both ways — see the Mae Hong Son hub for where to stay before or after.