Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn)

Wat Arun sits on the Chao Phraya’s west bank in Thonburi, its central prang clad in a mosaic of Chinese porcelain. Foreign visitors pay 200 THB, the temple is open daily 08:00 to 18:00 (last entry 17:30), and you reach it from Tha Tien pier on a two-minute cross-river ferry that costs 5 THB. Allow one to two hours, and arrive at opening if you want to climb without a queue.

History of the Temple of Dawn

A temple stood here in the Ayutthaya period, known as Wat Makok. King Taksin renamed it Wat Chaeng when he made Thonburi his capital in 1767, and the Emerald Buddha was enshrined here until it moved to Wat Phra Kaew across the river in 1785. The temple fell into disuse until Rama II restored it and planned to raise the main pagoda to 70 metres. Building on the great prang began under Rama III and finished in 1851, about nine years later. A major restoration between 2013 and 2017 replaced many broken tiles and used lime plaster in place of the earlier cement, and the cleaner, whiter finish drew some criticism, though the Fine Arts Department defended it as faithful to the original.

What to see

The prang is covered in porcelain, shells and ceramic pieces that had earlier served as ballast on boats arriving from China, set into floral and lotus patterns. Four smaller satellite prangs stand at its corners, and a seven-pronged trident tops the centre. Figures of Chinese soldiers and animals line the base, and statues of Indra riding the three-headed elephant Erawan sit above the second terrace. Six Chinese-style pavilions face the river. The ordination hall holds a Buddha image said to be designed under Rama II, and its murals date from the reign of Rama V. Two yaksha guardians stand at the entrance.

You can climb the staircase on the central prang to a narrow upper terrace. The steps are steep, some nearly vertical, with rope handrails. Allow 10 to 15 minutes for the climb and descent, and expect a wait at the top terrace during late morning.

Insider Tip: The sunset photo of Wat Arun is shot from the east bank, not from the temple. The Eagle Nest rooftop at Sala Rattanakosin and The Deck at Arun Residence look straight across at the prang. The temple is lit after dark, and about 19:00 is the time to look for it from the riverside.

Getting there

Take the MRT Blue Line to Sanam Chai, walk about 5 minutes north to Tha Tien pier, and cross on the ferry. From Sathorn Pier (next to BTS Saphan Taksin), the orange-flag Chao Phraya Express Boat runs to Tha Tien (pier N8), roughly 30 to 40 minutes, with a fare around 15 to 16 THB. Pay for the ferry and boat in cash. A taxi from most tourist areas costs 150 to 250 THB, but the ferry costs a fraction of that. There is no dedicated parking.

Wat Pho is a 5-minute walk from Tha Tien and the Grand Palace is about 10 minutes north, so most visitors take the three in one loop: Grand Palace first, Wat Pho at midday, then Wat Arun in the afternoon.

Watch out: Shoulders and knees must be covered; shorts above the knee, mini skirts, tank tops and see-through clothing are turned back. Sarongs rent at the entrance for about 20 THB with a 100 THB refundable deposit. Take your shoes off before entering the ordination hall.

When to go

Crowds build from mid-morning, and the prang has no shade, so noon to 15:00 is the hardest window. The light is good from 08:00 to 09:00 and again between 16:30 and 17:30. Weekends and holidays bring long queues at the prang staircase.